Bondtech direct drive retraction settings

Bondtech direct drive retraction settings

The Prusa defaults for PrusaSlicer profiles are 0. What slicer and profiles are you using? I moved the "O" scale insulators to a 1" OC spacing to try to help the stringing but it did not seem to help. I increased the length to 4. That's what my Retraction is set at: 0. I get minimal stringing at those settings more like whisps than actual stringing.

I have tried several times to upload the 3mf file thanks for showing me how to save the file. The forum server keeps giving me an error message saying it will not allow the file for security reasons. This is the zipped file for the insulators at the last settings of. I just printed you parts with my gooeyest filament; and I can say I am impressed you can get them to stay attached for an entire print.

I'm probably due for an acetone bath, but I had to add brims to keep them down. And webbing And I honestly can't say why, other than small towers with lots of moves causes a web to form with each move. Again, this was my worst offending filament a marbleand it doesn't look as bad as your print.

But I had to reslice to add a brim, and I went with 0. And your parts are small enough the heat gun trick doesn't really help much I can't really suggest anything to help at this point, except to find a better behaving filament.

I suspect even my "better" filament won't help a lot here. Maybe playing with temps, but I am guessing now. First time I've run into a part that is this stringy. I cheated and used a 0. The more layers you have the print, the more movement, the more potential for stringing, and the greater the odds of adhesion failing. At this size, I don't think anybody will see much difference, especially if you paint them. I believe white is notoriously more difficult to print with, so that may explain some of the results.

The stringing stayed more-or-less manageable, but a few of the shapes are mangled. I calibrated the extrusion multiplier, filament diameter and linear advance settings for the filament prior to printing. I could probably go a bit lower on temps, but this worked well enough. I think you could get a much higher part density and stable print if you simply line these parts up on a sprue and use flush cutters to remove them.

I will try the file from Bobstro and see if it works better. As an alternative I can print the insulators for my train layout one at a time. I don't need that many anyway and they print in less than a minute. My delay was because the MAC was putting the replies in the Junk file. I just found all of your responses and read them.Skip to content. Logout Register. Impossible to remove retraction defects with S3D.

Impossible to remove retraction defects with S3D Tue Aug 22, pm I have been trying to remove retraction defects from my prints in Simplify3D 4. The printer I am using for most of this testing is a Raise3D N2. Using Raise3D's slicer Ideamaker I can get the printer to produce prints with no noticeable retraction defects on the skin of my prints so the printer is working properly.

Trying Simplify3D with identical retraction settings that are used in Ideamaker, Simplify produces noticeable defects on the print wherever a retraction occurs. It doesn't seem to matter if I vary coasting, wipe, extra restart distance, crossing open spaces there is still a very noticeable defect. I have attached pictures of comparison of of the prints I am achieving with the respective slicers. Using the same settings as Ideamaker, ulitmaker's slicer Cura is able to produce satisfactory results so there is something going on with Simplify3D that makes retraction more pronounced then other slicers.

S3D Seam. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. Re: Impossible to remove retraction defects with S3D Tue Aug 22, pm Your retraction settings are not optimal but the don't cause the row surface. Thats overextruding of material. Take an exact messure of the filament, best done with a micrometerscrew.

Set this value to menue Other. Reduce the Multiplier 1.

bondtech direct drive retraction settings

Vertical lift 0. Find it out. NO coast at end and NO wipe Good luck regards horst. The extruder is calibrated to extrude the correct length and the multiplier is correct for the type and brand of filament. The images above are mainly for reference. I have similar results on other printers as well. My point is the retraction settings in Simplify3D don't seem to have the same effect as with other slicers.

I was able to tune out retraction defects and seams much better on other slicers. Night and day difference when using relatively the same setting between slicers. Perhaps it is just that other slicers that have better methods of hiding retraction defects on the surface of the print. It's just a little frustrating purchasing Simplify3D to gain better supports, more straight forward interface, and in general improving the capabilities of the printer only to have more retraction defects on the surface then other slicers.Your browser does not seem to support JavaScript.

As a result, your viewing experience will be diminished, and you may not be able to execute some actions. Please download a browser that supports JavaScript, or enable it if it's disabled i. I ran something like 0. I've read 4mm to 7mm, but that seems quite high. I run 0. I would guess the BMG and Nimble are quite similar since they are both geared direct extruders.

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But the Nimble is set up with much lower jerk and acceleration. That sounds like the retraction you would need for a Bowden extruder, not direct drive. Maybe I need a bit of coasting or negative restart distance to get rid of the small defects near retraction points.

03. Direct Drive for CR-10S - Firmware Update

From what I've been able to gather 2mm seems to be a good starting point for a direct drive volcano. Register Login. Only users with topic management privileges can see it. Does anyone have a similar setup and want to share retraction details? Reply Quote 0 1 Reply Last reply. I have exactly the same setup on volcano with 0. I almost settled on something, but I definitely have to take another look at it.

Loading More Posts 6 Posts. Reply Reply as topic.Minor Version m.

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Approved Bondtech QC Lite. Time Required. To properly use the Bondtech Direct Drive for CRs one needs to update the firmware with our version.

There are several reasons why we recommend our version, and the main one is the use of E3D's V6 Hot-End. This Hot-End is using a different kind of thermistor from the original one and will not show the right temperature on your display otherwise. Another reason why we highly recommend you to change to Marlin 1.

Click here to download. We have several Firmware versions in that folder, be sure you choose the one that best fits your 3D printer and setup with or without BL Touch.

Upgrading my Creality CR-10S to the Bondtech CR-10S Direct Drive System (DDS)

This guide is using Cura Newer versions or other slicers can be used in similar way. You can download Cura Your Serial Port may be different from ours, check Step 3 to find out what port number your printer is using.

Ensure your printer is connected to the computer at all time during installation. Cancel: I did not complete this guide. Which one has this firmware been coded for? Im not using filament run out sensor, so i will use an own configured firmware. What do i have to change in marlin 1.

Hi, thanks for adding the BLTouch to the firmware. I just flashed my CR10s S4 and there are no Bltouch options in the menu. I made sure I used the right firmware. All rights reserved. Difficulty Moderate. Steps 7. Time Required - Sections 1. Flags 0. Bondtech's Product Page. Bondtech modified Marlin 1. Other Bondtech specific changes.

bondtech direct drive retraction settings

Step 1 Download Firmware.Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 2 guests. Home Forums 3D Printing Software. I also made my minimum retraction distance.

I have a Anet A8 and have been printing with the stock direct drive for 3 weeks now. I didn't touch the retraction settings in Cura 2.

I just changed to a E3D all Metal Bowden setup mainly because I want to print Nylon and need a complete enclosed filament travel from spool to nozzle. So my first Bowden prints are still ok, but quality dropped a bit. I'm getting some blobs, sometimes in the middle of a long outer wall but mainly on the edges.

From my readings and knowledge I would have to adjust retraction while changing to Bowden. On the other hand the suggestions found so far I found differ quite.

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There are suggestions referring to max retraction of 2mm others suggest to set higher values up to 10mm to avoid stringing and blobing. As being a learning by doing guy I will just start a series of prints starting with no retraction and then going my way up. Just would be interested what you guys have set your retraction to. Regards Richard. Delta with bowden extruder and original E3D hot end.

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And maybe someone experienced can proof or disapprove my thinking While extruding pressure is put on the filament towards the nozzle. While retraction should take away this pressure This my main question; As in a Bowden the distance from the extruder stepper to the hotend is much longer as in a direct drive wouldn,t there be some kind of additional flex to the filament in a Bowden setup and therefore more retraction distance is needed?

On the other hand if I set the retraction to high the filament might be completely pulled out of the hot zone. The hotend is assembled correctly. My main passion is repairing engines so assembling metal parts I think I know what I'm doing. Will go on with further tests in changing retraction speed and print temperature.

I'm trying to limit th changes in parameters to max 2 at a time in order to get a better understanding which settings are causing different print outcomes. Will post pictures tonight once I have at least a 10 print series. Btw this leads me to the idea of setting myself up a print database but might start a own thread on this. Who is online Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 2 guests. All times are UTC Imprint.Extruding thermoplastic is a complicated process with dozens of variables in play.

Retraction does not create negative pressure. This would likely lead to lots of jams and other extrusion issues, but this is not the case. Think about candle wax.

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If you were to put a small cylinder of wax into a pool of melted candle wax and then pull it out, would the melted wax come with it? Of course not. While a small amount of wax will stick to the cylinder when you remove it, it does not pull the pool of molten wax up with it. In the same way, the solid filament above the melt zone does not retract the molten filament with it.

There is a lot of misinformation out there about how much retraction you should have. So what is the correct amount? The correct amount is the minimum amount required to reduce the most stringing on your part.

Some machines and hot ends require more retraction than others, and each material has different requirements. MatterControl Travel Speed settings. MatterControl Retraction Length Setting. There are certainly other settings that affect oozing, but these are the most important, and the easiest to test and adjust. We'll cover the other settings in a future article. They are 10mm cubes and they are spaced 10mm, 20mm, and 40mm apart.

With this as the starting point, the first thing to do is to increase the travel speed of non-print moves.

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Again, the goal is to use the minimum amount of retraction necessary. Using more than necessary can cause jams, blobs, and other extrusion related issues. There is clear improvement — especially in the 10mm gap - but still a lot of stringing between parts. Just about right. There are a few very, very fine strands of PLA which you may not even be able to see in the picture, but the edges and faces are all very clean with no blobs or excess filament to speak of.

To quickly and easily tune your settings to achieve optimal retraction, download the cube retraction print hereand print it with your current settings. Download the Retraction cube files here. Based on your results, adjust either the travel speed or the retraction distance and reprint.

Only change 1 setting at a time. That way, you can easily see the effect of each change. We don't recommend distances greater than 5mm, or less than 0.Along with your sunscreen (or umbrella. You may want binoculars to see your favorite pass the finish line, but the tools in the following list are even more useful when it comes to actually placing your bets:Racetrack program: Like a program at a baseball game, it has information on all the players. In this case, the players are the horses, jockeys, trainers, and owners.

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Cost is 50 cents. Handicapping tip sheets: These are daily selections published by handicappers at the racetrack. Following is a list of payoffs at various odds for quick reference:Are you with a group of friends betting on horses at the racetrack. A fun way to bet on horse races that gets everyone in your party involved is a group show parlay. Each person in the group picks one race and one horse to bet to show.

Place the first bet, and if you win, parlay the money on the next race and horse. Your winnings can add up very quickly. Of course you are, and the facts and stats in the following list can help you better your odds:Every racetrack has a television simulcast commentator who handicaps between the races.

Listen and see if you can pick up any good tips to bet on. The top ten riders in the jockey standings win about 90 percent of the races run during the meet. A no-brainer method of betting overlays is to play a couple bucks on horses going off at odds two to three times higher than its morning line.

When it comes to betting on horse races, before you even place a bet on a horse you need to decide what type of bet to place. The following list spells out the betting procedure step by step: State the name of the racetrack.

State the dollar unit of your bet. State the type of wager. You can bet on a single horse to win, place, or show or on a combination of horses. Check your ticket before you leave the window. Betting Tools You Need at the Horse RacesAlong with your sunscreen (or umbrella. You may want binoculars to see your favorite pass the finish line, but the tools in the following list are even more useful when it comes to actually placing your bets: Racetrack program: Like a program at a baseball game, it has information on all the players.


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